Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Jordan

I've been in Jordan now since Sunday, traveling from Aqaba to Petra to Amman. We left our hotel in Dahab around 10am on Sunday to head to the bus station. There we waited for the 10:30 bus, which showed up around 11:30am to take us up to Nuweiba (that's Egyptian time for you...). Once we arrived in Nuweiba, JM and Lindsay went ahead while I hung back with a few guys we'd met in the bus station (Joe, who's American and Christian, who's German) so I could stop at the bank to get some American dollars to pay for the ferry. Once we finally found the ticket office, which was a challenge, we bought our tickets and headed over to entrance to the port. JM and Lindsay were already inside. Someone who worked at the port saw the tickets Joe, Christian and I were holding and rushed us through all the lines, just in time to wait a few hours. We were originally told the ferry left at 1:30. Then 2. Then 2:30. It left after 4:30. Once again, Egyptian time.
We arrived in Aqaba and checked in with immigration, then found our way to our hotel. The hotel was much nicer than we had expected, especially considering how cheap it was. We ate dinner and went to sleep, having had a tiring day of travel.
The next morning, we woke up around 8am to get ready to leave Aqaba for Petra. We were originally going to take a bus there, but our cabbie convinced us that we should have him take us all the way up to Petra, which turned out to be only a bit more expensive and we were able to stop and see a lot of sights along the way. It was definitely worth the extra.
From Dahab/Jordan

From Dahab/Jordan

Once we arrived in Petra, we checked into our hotel, then headed to see the ruins in Petra. Petra was absolutely beautiful; it was the capital of a society around 100 BC and consists of several buildings built into the side of the mountains.

From Dahab/Jordan

From Dahab/Jordan

From Dahab/Jordan
Toward the end, we accidentally climbed a mountain... in flip-flops. We didn't realize we were climbing a mountain until we were a significant way up and we weren't done climbing; we thought it would be just a few stairs up to a higher area since we were walking through a valley and there were other places built higher than the path level but not on the top.

From Dahab/Jordan

From Dahab/Jordan
Once we reached the top, we were absolutely exhausted, that having been the second mountain we'd climbed in 3 days. We vowed not to climb any more mountains this vacation, descended and made it out of the park just after dark.

From Dahab/Jordan
Once again, we returned to the hotel, having little energy to do much outside eat dinner and sleep, but we ended up spending a few hours over dinner and tea, sitting with the owner of the hotel and chatting about all sorts of topics. He had lived in PA for a few years and had some very interesting perspectives about the Middle East and the viewpoints of Americans.
This morning, we got going a little later than we had hoped, but we made it to Amman via mini-bus (well, medium-sized bus) at around 2pm and checked into our hotel. This hotel is actually run by the brother of the owner of the hotel we stayed in last night; he had recommended it to us and made a call to get us reservations. It's not quite as clean as last night's, but it is a bit cheaper and definitely still worth it.
Next 24 hours: dinner in Amman, probably Dead Sea tomorrow morning, flight at 7pm to Beirut!


Kevin


From Dahab/Jordan

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Dahab, Egypt

I have been in Dahab, Egypt for a few days now. We (my friends Jon-Michael and Lindsay and I) arrived mid-afternoon Thursday and are checking out first thing tomorrow morning. Dahab is a small town on the Sinai Peninsula, near the tip where the Red Sea splits. Dahab is described as a "backpacker's paradise" because it's cheap and not filled with huge hotels and chain corporations. Nearby Sharm El Sheikh (where I had originally planned to spend the first few days of my vacation) is much more alive and vibrant (and expensive) while Dahab is a much calmer town. I've really enjoyed my last few days here and and very glad we chose this location instead of Sharm El Sheikh; we have Beirut at the end of our vacation for our vibrant city fill, not to mention that we live in one of the busiest cities in the world.
The hotel we're staying in is called "Seven Heaven" (that's not a typo; it's not "Seventh") and is rather basic. We have 2 double rooms for the 3 of us, $7/night each; can't get much better than that.
From Dahab/Jordan
The staff is amazingly friendly, especially the chef of the restaurant, Mohammad. He opened up a "tab" for the whole AUC group, so we just write what we buy in this little notebook and pay at the end. It's all honor system, which is actually really refreshing to see. We get free wireless internet for an hour any time we buy something in the restaurant, which is usually a few meals a day.
From Dahab/Jordan
The town is essentially all down one strip of sidewalk (pedestrians only!) that runs along the water, with only outdoor seating for the restaurants between the sidewalk and the shore. There are a few little offshoots with some more stores and restaurants, but it's a very quaint town, filled with little shops. The town is very focused on diving and a few other underwater sports, as well as desert excursions, though those are definitely secondary.
From Dahab/Jordan
The first day in Dahab, we arrived too late to do much of anything, so we basically ate a late lunch and hung out with a few other AUC students who were staying in the same hotel as us. Around dinner time, we found our way to a little Thai restaurant around the corner from the hotel, which turned out to be very good (and actually came highly recommended by the chef of the hotel restaurant). Afterwards, we found our way to a little local bar and spent an hour or two there.
The second day, we woke up around 9 to meet up with other AUC students and head to Blue Hole, a snorkeling and scuba diving hotspot. It was absolutely gorgeous to snorkel there (not to mention $6 for the ride there and the equipment). We spent a few hours exploring the reef and seeing quite the variety of fish in and around the reef. Once we got back to the hotel, Lindsay, JM and I officially decided that we would hike Mt. Sinai that night. We headed back to our rooms to rest up for a little while.
Around 9pm, the three of us went to dinner and finished just in time to be ready to catch the minibus to Mt. Sinai at 11pm. Once we made it to the mountain (about an hour and half away by the time we picked up others from different hotels), we unloaded from the bus and began the nighttime trek up one of the most religiously significant mountains in the world, the one where Bedouin traditions dictate that Moses received the 10 Commandments from God. It was a challenge to make it up the hill, as exhausted as we were from snorkeling all day and the fact that it was the middle of the night. We finally made it to the top around 4am, in time to stop for a cup of tea before finishing the last few minute walk up to the very peak. At 5:30am, the sun rose in all its glory and we took an absurd number of pictures.
From Dahab/Jordan
From Dahab/Jordan
Once we were satisfied with the sunrise, we began the journey back down the mountain, thankful that at least this direction was lit by the sun, not cell phones and flashlights. At the bottom, we explored St. Katherine's Monastery, the oldest working monastery in the world and where the Burning Bush is said to have been located.
From Dahab/Jordan
We eventually made it back, exhausted, to the hotel at around 1pm to discover that some of the AUC kids we know are still here even though we thought they had all left this morning. Which leads me to right now: heading to ride an ATV with some of them through the desert!
From Dahab/Jordan

Tomorrow morning we begin the journey to Jordan via Nuweiba, Egypt, taking a ferry to Aqaba, Jordan and continuing through Petra and culminating in Amman. From there, we fly to Beirut!


More updates soon, I hope!
Kevin


Note: I added some pictures after I wrote this!

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Luxor and Aswan Nile Cruise

I returned last night from an amazing weekend of cruising down the Nile and seeing several different temples. The boat was 4 floors, complete with an all-you-can-eat buffet three times a day and an open sundeck with a pool.

From Luxor/Aswan Nile Cruise

From Luxor/Aswan Nile Cruise

The first day, we had to leave our dorm at 2am to make our flight to Luxor and take in a few of the sights before we boarded the boat. It was a very long day, but really cool to see the Valley of the Kings, where the tombs of King Tut and other ancient Egyptian kings are. They are caverns built into the mountain, intricately decorated. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed to be taken inside the tombs (you pay a huge fine if they catch you!), so I don't have any to post.
Here's a picture on wikipedia of one that I went into: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ramses_IV_tomb_colors.jpg
We also went to see the temple of Hatshepsut, who is considered by some historians to be the only female Egyptian king. The temple was somewhat rebuilt, so it looks very nice (and clearly a bit fake).

From Luxor/Aswan Nile Cruise

Once we finally made it back to the boat and had lunch, we had a few hours to relax and explore the boat before dinner. After dinner, we went out into Luxor and found a cafe to hang out in for a few hours.
In the morning, we woke up to see Karnak, a huge temple complex filled top to bottom with hieroglyphics.
We wandered around the temple, listening to one of the tour guides tell interesting stories about the gods and what all of the hieroglyphs mean.
Then we returned the boat and finally set sail south. Over the next few days, we split our time between sailing down the Nile and visiting other temples. After a few, they begin to look a bit similar, so I won't post too many pictures here. There are far more posted at http://picasaweb.google.com/kevinmachnik.
On the last day, we visited the High Dam, the dam that was built to control the flooding of the Nile. The dam was controversial because it ruined the livelihood of many Egyptian farmers that relied on the flooding to make their land fertile, but it was important for controlling the river and allowing for further progress in Egypt. It also creates a huge amount of energy for the country. To the south is Lake Nasser, the lake created by the dam that is partially in southern Egypt, partially in northern Sudan. The creation of Lake Nasser required the relocation of several ancient temples, which were dismantled and moved to higher ground, such as the last temple that we visited on this trip.
From Luxor/Aswan Nile Cruise
It really was a very fun weekend, and I got to know more of the international students (mostly American) that I had not spent much time with previously.


Now off to the Sinai Peninsula, Jordan and Beirut!
Kevin

Friday, September 18, 2009

Luxor and Aswan Nile Cruise!

Leaving in a few hours for the Luxor and Aswan Nile Cruise! Itinerary is as follows:

Day 1:
•Departure from Cairo to Aswan and embarkation upon arrival!
•Visit the high dam
•Visit the Temple of Philae
•Felluca ride around Kitchener’s Island and Aga Khan Mausoleum
Day 2:
•Visit the Temple shared by the two gods Sobek and Haroeris of Kom Ombo
•Sail to Edfu and visit Horus Temple
•Sail to Luxor
Day 3:
•Visit the Valley if the kings, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut at Deir El-Bahari and the Colossi of Memnon
•Visit Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple
Day 4:
•Sail back to Aswan
•Disembark
•Head back to Cairo!


I'll try to fill in the details when I get back, but I'll be heading to Sharm El Sheikh, Jordan and Beirut the next day, so I may not be able to post depending on the internet connectivity over the next few weeks.


Kevin

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

AUC to Suspend Classes until October 3rd

"AUC will be suspending classes beginning Thursday, September 17 until Saturday, October 3. The decision follows a request by the Egyptian government that the university suspend its classes in line with government universities, which have suspended classes due to concerns relating to the H1N1 flu.

There have been no positive cases of the flu reported on the AUC campuses or by any member of the AUC community..."

-Excerpted from an email from AUC

I'm not sure what I'll do for the next few weeks. They want us to somehow continue classes electronically, but with any luck I'll be able to take a nice long trip. I already have a Nile Cruise planned to Luxor and Aswan the weekend, so I'll have lots of time after that!


Kevin

Bedouin-style Iftar

In the Islamic calendar, the month of Ramadan is a month of fasting (and other religious traditions). Each day during the month, Muslims cannot eat from sunrise to sundown; the meal before sunrise is called Sahour (around 4am) and the meal after sundown is called Iftar (around 6pm).
Last night, I had the unique opportunity to travel into the desert on horseback with about 6 Egyptians and a few other Americans to enjoy iftar in the Bedouin manner. The Bedouins are the nomadic people of Egypt, traveling through the desert on horseback. Being with Egyptians, we were able to get the best deals on the horses and the food; the evening only cost 75LE, which is about 15USD, including horseback riding and food. The cabs to and from Giza was a small additional cost of only a few USD. I met up with the son of one of my Arabic professors and the other Egyptians and Americans around 5pm, and we took a cab out to Giza, not far from the pyramids. From there, we got on our horses and headed out into the desert, the pyramids not far in the distance the entire time. Once we had found our spot, the Egyptians struggled against the wind for a little while set up a fire for some light, and we took out the pre-prepared food of chicken, rice, pita bread, and, of course, coke and water. We spent about an hour in the desert eating and talking, exchanging stories about home and our families. Finally, we mounted our horses and rode back out of the desert.
To head home, we jumped into a mini-bus, which is essentially a VW bus from the 60s, that took us back within a short cab ride from our various locations. That was quite the Egyptian experience since there were far too many of us inside the little bus, leading a few of the Egyptians to stand on the edge of the open door, holding onto the roof to not fall into the street.
It was a great experience to spend some quality time with some Egyptians (it can be hard at school sometimes and its easier to hang out with mostly Americans, as much as we try to avoid doing so) and share in the cultural experience (including the ride home!).


Kevin

PS I'll try to add the one picture from the night to this post once I have a chance to upload it onto my computer

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Pyramids!

Last week I took the short bus ride to the Giza area of Cairo to see the pyramids, a trip organized by ResLife (the AUC students who run the dorms; RAs and such).
From Pyramids

I never knew that the pyramids were literally right on the edge of the city; they were built for the purpose of reminding the residents of Cairo about the divinity of the pharaohs thousands of years ago and the city hasn't moved since, only gotten bigger. I was actually able to climb up inside the Great Pyramid (the biggest one) for a few dollars, which was quite an intense climb. The opening was only about 4 feet tall, so you had to crouch and climb up a steep ramp essentially. Unfortunately, I have no pictures because cameras are not allowed inside the pyramid.

One of the highlights of that trip was riding a camel for about 15 minutes:
From Pyramids

Quite the experience. It's somewhat like riding a horse, just a lot more awkward. It was definitely worth it; it's Egypt, so how can you escape without riding a camel?

For more pictures, click either the ones above or check out my picasa page.

Couple more trips coming up!


Kevin

Thursday, September 3, 2009

First Week Post: Edition 1: Driving

Here's the first edition of my 1st week Cairo blog, each with a different topic.
This post: Driving in Cairo.

Driving in Cairo is absolutely insane. Traffic laws are merely a suggestion. Lanes are essentially just a waste of paint; today I literally saw two cars in one lane, widthwise. I wish I'd been able to take a picture. The traffic is unreal; coming home at 2am on Saturday night from the airport, we got stuck in traffic. In addition, the cars drive incredibly close to each other, within inches, especially in tight traffic as cars weave in between others (albeit incredibly slowly given the amount of traffic). Furthermore, people cross fearlessly as cars fly by them on both sides, hopefully stopping or swerving in time to miss them.
All that being said, I've yet to see any accidents or people getting hit.
On the side of the road, cars will double-park and leave their doors unlocked with only a parking brake on; if someone who's parked in needs to get out, someone on the street will climb into the car and help out in pushing the car out of the way.


More to come soon!
Kevin